Today, the first day I've made it out of the residencia in what seems like a week, was surprisingly eventful and educational. I spent most of yesterday in bed, reading my latest novel,
The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, and feeling sorry for myself because I couldn't be in Sao Miguel with all my friends. Despite feeling congested and achy and suffering from a minor migraine when I woke up this morning, I was determined to get out of the freaking residencia for the day. I got up, made my bed and then breakfast, and rounded up the other two sickly stragglers for an afternoon of frolicking around town. Well, an afternoon of low-key museum cruising anyway. There was just one thing...I'm deathly afraid of museums. And the ocean. And of COURSE this museum was the perfect combination of museum and ocean. (Ever since seeing the original American flag in the Smithsonian and crying when I was younger I've been terrified of museum exhibits.) Luckily I had Fei Fei and Chris there to help me overcome these irrational fears.
After lunch the three of us trekked over to Museu do Angra do Heroismo, a beautiful, albeit infinitely large, building that was once a monastery, and is in fact still attached to the monk's original church. We spent the entire three hours that the museum was open exploring artillery from both world wars, showrooms of horse-drawn carriages, and the now-standard giant room full of Jesus statues (see pictures). The following is a list of activities from our time in the museum: played on iron skeletons of horses, climbed inside antique (circa 18th century) and overly ornate carriages, watched authentic (and quite possibly original) nickelodeons and silent films from turn-of-the-century Terceira, got lost in the midst of an ancient monastery, pretended to be soldiers on Sao Miguel's air force base, took pictures of Jesus, Mary, and friends in the most beautiful church I've ever seen, and learned the answers to so many of our questions about the island. For example, when I first met Basillio, he tried explaining why the second square in the town was named after pirates because they hid their "cereal" under the ground there...come to find out the locals dug holes in the ground and stored their grain in the ground during the harsh winter months. Gotta love that language barrier, right?
Aside from cringing every time we saw a glass box protecting a vintage dress, I had a surprisingly enjoyable afternoon. After the museum, we decided we were ravenous, and needed to eat before we keeled over and died. Sounds a little extreme, but exhibit hopping can really work up an appetite. The only reasonable solution to this was, obviously, to head on over to our favorite hamburger joint in the center of town. I ordered a hamburger, sat back, and let the good times roll. Seriously, though. I think Fei Fei and Chris make the best company because they're both so unique in the way they go about making conversation. Fei Fei is my lovely little Chinese immigrant, sometimes a little OCD (methodical may be a better word for it), but always loveable, while Chris is the funny, maybe a little loquacious, nursing student, full of good stories and wise words. If I had to stay behind on this weekend's beach trip, I'm glad it was with these two.
By 7 pm, an early dinner by Azorean standards, my stomach was full of beef, fries, and an oh-so delicious Magnum double caramel chocolate bar. (I've pretty much given up on trying to eat healthy here. Having to constantly count calories is distracting me from having fun; I'll work on getting fit when I move back to the real world.) We left the restaurant and began walking back to our dorm. When we got to the big peach church, we saw this old dog limping towards us. Of course I walked up to it and started showering it with attention...until Chris noted its back leg was shaking uncontrollably. We waited for it to lay down, but the poor thing was in so much pain that it took about two minutes just to get its back legs on the ground. We were going to get it water or call animal control until we realized none of us had phones on us nor did we know a store that was open where we could purchase water and a bowl. Unfortunately the only thing we could do was leave it at the foot of the church steps and hope that it wouldn't follow us when we walked away. It was probably one of the saddest moments I've had on the island...you know how I am whenever an animal is suffering.
Luckily Chris and I saw many other happy, healthy dogs later in the night to make up for that sickly one. We dropped Fei Fei off and headed on over to the garden to see one of the evening's touradas. One thing y'all should know about summertime in Angra is that there are, at least, three festas, touradas, and processions in a full day, all preceded and followed by loud, thunderous firecrackers to indicate the start and end of one of these events. I wake up every morning to the wonderful sound of a gun firing as my alarm clock. It's like living in Syria, but without the threat of dying if you step outside. So this evening we followed the fireworks to the top of the garden where a small crowd had gathered around the edge of the peak overlooking the street. Chris and I talked about life things while we waited for our bull to make his appearance, and when he finally did, we didn't even have to pause our conversation. This tourada was much more laid-back than any I'd previously attended, and for this I was grateful considering I'm still not fully (even remotely) recovered from my cold/allergies/flu. This tourada was also located in a more middle-class neighborhood, resulting in a smaller and less rambunctious (read: drunk) crowd. It might have been raining earlier in the day, but as the weather on this island so often does, temperatures rose and the sun actually started shining around 8. Once the bulls were safely secured in their boxes, Chris and I took a walk down some streets I hadn't explored before. We passed a wall where a twitchy cat was purring for attention...we couldn't resist the adorable look in its eye. We scratched its belly, played with its tail, and cooed baby voices for about ten minutes before making our way back to the garden to watch the sunset over the city. By 10 pm we were back in the residencia and on our laptops.
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Since last week, I've been struggling to answer the question, "in what ways has this trip changed me?" Everyone always says traveling abroad is a life-changing experience, but I think I've taken that too literally (per usual) and tried to figure out just how I've been changed while still on the trip. Well, let me just go ahead and say that's not the best way to go about discovering the answer...perhaps a little too preemptive, haha. Last night, while I sat in bed throwing myself a pity party for being sick, I unexpectedly learned a little about myself. Chris and Nedia, my wonderful 24-year-old roommate from Mozambique, dragged me out of bed for herbal tea (to help cure my sore throat). From midnight until 2 am, the three of us sat in the kitchen and talked politics until my eyelids wouldn't lift themselves anymore. To describe how this affected me, I must first explain the dynamics of the discussion. Nedia, the animal studies girl, quietly watched Chris and I debate women's rights issues until she was asked her opinion (mainly by me). Having lived in Mozambique for most her life, and studied in Brazil and now Portugal (not to mention she dates a guy from Spain), she has a lot of different perspectives and was glad to share them with us. Chris, on the other hand, while not as worldly, had age on his side. His arguments were grounded in personal experiences and philosophies. And then there was me, the barely third-year college student with limited actual knowledge of politics and even more limited knowledge of current events. Between the three of us, however, we managed to have one of the best debates I've had since coming to college. I learned more in those two hours than I could've been taught by my favorite political science professor in an entire semester. For one, I realized that just because I don't follow every media site on Twitter or read every Economist article ever published doesn't mean I'm not informed. Nor does it mean I'm not passionate, because surprisingly I'm full of passion I didn't know I had. Secondly, I discovered that there is such a thing as healthy debate, and it's called discussion. People can have different opinions and still enjoy each other's company (and not leave the conversation in a heated fit). This may seem like common sense, though if we're being honest, I never really had a lot of that, but it was just one of those things I had to realize on my own. Another important discovery I made was that I'm actually capable of putting up a good fight. Until now I constantly worried about being an incompetent pre-law student. I may not have all the facts, but let's face it, there isn't really an honest "fact" out there. Which is another thing I realized: politics is essentially a game of who can construe the facts well enough to convince a large enough portion of the electorate to vote for their candidate or campaign for their issue. But this game is exactly WHY I love politics so much. I hate reading/listening to the news, hearing stories with slanted opinions that could very well be portrayed in an entirely different light, but I love learning what motivates politicians/the media to do this. My final lesson, therefore, is that politics isn't just about staying on top of the issues. For God's sake, even the most well-versed senators and representatives don't know everything about every policy. That's why they have a large staff full of researchers and specialists. Politics is an intersection of so many different mechanisms: the media, businesses/corporations, unions, NGOs, international finance ministries, etc. How can anyone be expected to understand, let alone incorporate reasonably, all areas?! The weight of this stress is unbearable. Hence the reason my degree in politics has the potential for so many post-graduate avenues: law, clearly the first and foremost, but also any number of fields outside the government. After last night's discussion with Nedia and Chris, I'm actually looking forward to completing my undergraduate degree. Not that I wasn't before, but worrying about 1) being a qualified debater (which I now realize will come with time) and 2) being a qualified debater in current events always depressed me. However, now, more than ever, I know what part of politics intrigues me and will inspire me to keep learning.
I'm coming to the conclusion that I may not ever know how much this trip has changed me until I'm older (and hopefully wiser!). But I can say I'm grateful for how much I've already learned, heard, read, discovered, and witnessed since coming here. I just want to keep traveling the world and meet new people with different experiences and continue learning! Actually, what I want is to take back this new passion for learning and discovery and apply it to life back in North Carolina. That would be the true test of what I've learned here, wouldn't it?
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